DAY 2: CHATEAUGIRON - CHAMPTOCEAUX: 96.3km
SUNDAY 18 JULY

We woke after a good night's sleep to our 7am alarm. It was a beautiful sunny day and we were pleased that we had decided to book our breakfast at 8am as we were keen to get going. When we got downstairs the connecting door to the reception area and dining room was locked and there was no sign of life. All we could do was wait as we couldn't leave as our bike was locked in the outhouse. By 8.10am we were beginning to feel annoyed and were on the verge of deciding that when he did turn up we would say we didn't have time for breakfast but then the lights came on, the door was open and Rob could smell the coffee.

We were shown into the breakfast room and our host rushed out to the bakery leaving us to think maybe that is what we should have done

When we did finally eat our breakfast it was pleasant enough and we left the table feeling full despite the lack of cereal but we did both wonder whether we might have been better off just going to the baker's and leaving an hour earlier.

We were keen to get going




I liked the building site sign




We were on the road by 9.10am




The air was so still




The dark stonework really stood out against the blue sky




It was a perfect day for cycling




It wasn't an easy route but the scenery made up for it

We followed lanes down to the valley bottom and up the other side most of the morning passing fields of maize and wheat and pretty dark stoned cottages.

We were disappointed that Coesmes didn't have a bar - we were ready for a stop




We needed a cereal bar at the top of the next hill

We continued to roll down one hill and up the next and enjoyed the breeze we created as it had turned into a very hot day. I saw what would have been a great photo had I had the nerve to take it - as we passed a farm the farmer was hanging up his newly washed overalls and checked shirts in amongst his well tendered vegetable patch.

We were ready for our lunch when we arrived at Chateaubriant

It was a beautiful town with so many flowers but being Sunday all the restaurants were shut

We asked a friendly bar if we could eat our bakery purchases on their cool terrace

We have discovered in France that as long as bars aren't serving food themselves they are happy for you to eat food you have purchased from the local baker. Although a baker's lunch isn't as filling as a set menu it is a very good second option, especially on a Sunday or Monday when everything else is closed.

We had really earnt our lunch and were really hungry and managed to eat a large filled baguette, a quiche, crisps and a cake as we knew that the afternoon would bring more hills. It was hard to get going again as it was lovely sitting in the shade of the terrace.

The views became more far reaching in the afternoon




The shade from the trees didn't last long enough

We were enjoying the ride although it was extremely hot and we could hear the melted tar on the road under our wheels. The hills seem harder work than they should have been in the heat although we did manage to outrun an Alsatian that tried to chase us but gave up when we hit 48kph - although at this point luckily we were on a slight down hill stretch. The scenery was beautiful and we cycled along chatting about nothing in particular or just enjoying the peace of the countryside while we enjoyed the scenery of fields of corn with combines busy harvesting and pasture with cows. We saw our first field of sunflowers which marked our southerly progress. Every time we approached a village we hoped we would find a bar as we were desperate for a cold drink and our bidons were verging on empty.

It was Sunday in France - everything was shut

We managed to find a standpipe by a river in a village and decided to take the risk and fill our bidons as we really didn't feel we had any choice we were so thirsty.

At last a bar that was open - but it was so near our destination we decided not to stop

We had reached the Loire - in 2 days

The last 1km of the day came as a bit of a shock - our destination was at the top of a very steep and very long winding hill. It seemed to go on forever but I felt surprisingly strong considering we had been climbing hills most of the day in the heat.

It was a relief to see our hotel at the top

We didn't arrive until 7pm and the staff were friendly and helped us park the tandem in the garage. After a shower we were ready for a pre-dinner stroll.

Our hotel was right next to the view point




And what a view - it was worth the climb

We were ready for a long cool drink and luckily our hotel was also the local bar. It was nice to sit and write our journals and reflect on the day's ride. We were both still feeling really good and I didn't feel as if I had been cycling all day. It doesn't matter how hot and tired I am when I arrive at our destination as soon as I have had a shower I am ready to go out and have a look around and don't feel like a cycle tourist any more but just a normal person on holiday - although I find myself having to explain my healthy appetite when we go out to eat!

It was still very warm at 8pm




We ate a superb meal in the hotel's restaurant




and then went back for a last look at the view point